The Beginning

Every journey has a beginning and an end. The middle is the tough section, kind of like parts of life in general. The hard part of life isn't dying, the hardest part is living - think about it

Anyway, we're at the start of a new year and like a lot of people, I'm looking into 2009 and thinking of where I am, where I want to be and how the hell am I going to get there! At the moment, I'm waiting for a broken leg to heal - snapped fibula and tibia in 4 pieces - and permission to put weight on it for the 1st time in 3 months. This enforced break has given me time to relax and think about a lot of things in my life. Specifically things I'd like to improve about myself.

I'm a huge believer in karma, what goes around comes around, we reep what we sow, etc, etc. Now I'm not saying I've been smited with a broken leg because I've been a bad boy. Merely, that sometimes the world needs balance brought to it. If that balance is achieved by ones self, stopping, thinking about things and then improving upon their lot, then so be it.

What this has really made me think about though, is realising that life is for living and we should make every moment count. I used to think I lived each day like it was my last and enjoyed life to the fullest. There were moments when this was probably true, but too much of it was also spent lazing in bed recovering with a hangover, spending obscene amounts on a forgettable night out and pining over some chick, who in hindsight, probably wasn't worth it! Now all of these things are fine - in moderation, but when they become a way of life, it has got to be time to question your priorities.

My biggest priority used to be surfing. I was an ok surfer. I wasn't particularly phased by larger surf and would give most things a try. But the important thing was, I enjoyed it. I didn't care that I'd never surf those gnarly reef breaks I'd see in Carve magazine or hold my own at Pipe. I occupied my own small niche of the world of surfing and I loved it. I felt alive. I had to drive 3 hours plus to get a half decent wave, usually starting early morning and not getting back until late, with the time in between spent freezing my ass off in the sea. But it was my thing and it made me feel alive. So many memories flash back to me from the recent past. Taking off on a wave and flying past my surf bro (who I am going to call the Boss), piling into the fish and chip shop after a surf before it shuts, clambering off the rocks in overhead surf, a night out in the pub after a day in the water and meeting Kelly Slater in Hossegor.

What I'm trying to say is......this time I've been forced to take, sitting, contemplating, has only been positive. It's allowed me to reshuffle my priorities, lose some of my selfishness and really want to be 'a better person'. Memories of happy times, hanging with the Boss, living each day to the max and really appreciating what I used to take for granted. Too much time has been wasted on wallowing self indulgently.

So we come to the end of the beginning, a declaration that I want to live my life in a positive way, whether that be maxmising each day to the full or just treating people that little bit better. I want to do something more than live a 9-5 existence and then drink for the weekend. I want to improve things in my own small but significant way. I intend to look out for myself and those around me and...well.....enjoy life and help others around me enjoy it too.